With over fifty top luxury watches brands displaying their goods in Geneva this year, it’s hard to choose the best releases from Watches and Wonders 2024. But we’ve scoured the releases to look for the most significant new and updated watches from the top brands and broken them down here for you. Some brands have made tasteful, tiny tweaks to their lineup while others have made bigger waves. Read on for our guide to the best of Watches and Wonders 2024.
⬤ 2024
WATCHES & WONDERS COVERAGE
Best of Watches and Wonders 2024
Rolex: 2024 Releases
Patek Philippe: 2024 Releases
Tudor: 2024 Releases
Cartier: 2024 Releases
A. Lange & Söhne: 2024 Releases
Jaeger LeCoultre: 2024 Releases
Panerai: 2024 Releases
Grand Seiko: 2024 Releases
Vacheron Constantin: 2024 Releases
IWC: 2024 Releases
Hublot, Zenith, and TAG Heuer: 2024 Releases
Everything to Know about W&W24
Kudos to IWC for becoming only the fifth brand in the world (that I know of) to make a secular perpetual calendar. Regular perpetual calendars display a leap year every fourth year, but actually, years that are divisible by 100 (but not 400) are not leap years. Incredibly, secular perpetual calendars mechanically account for those rules to (theoretically) maintain the correct date continuously until at least the year 4000. With the release of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701), IWC has joined the likes of Patek Philippe, Franck Muller, Svend Anderson and Furlan Marri. The dial of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar is made of glass and it looks sweet:
The solid rose gold green-dial Vacheron Constantin Overseas lineup will turn plenty of heads, but they released something far more impressive at Watches and Wonders 2024: the world’s first Chinese perpetual calendar, and also the most complicated watch in the world (63 complications!). It’s called the Berkley Grand Complication, it has 2,877 parts, and it took over 11 years to make.
One of the most immediately well-received watches with watch enthusiasts was the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Lots of Tudor fans have talked about about wanting a smaller GMT option for a while now–the standard BB GMT is 41mm but also 15mm thick. So, Tudor didn’t overthink it: they’re giving the people what they want with a 39mm case, the popular red/black “Coke” bezel colorway, and a quick-adjust T-Fit clasp.
We think the biggest hit when it comes to new 2024 women’s watches is the Hermès Cut. It has a sleek, feminine profile while still looking more sporty than dainty.
TAG Heuer released an interesting skeletonized split-seconds chronograph with an entirely sapphire caseback and a sapphire bezel. Unfortunately the price tag is about $150,000.
Patek Philippe has unveiled a tastefully updated Ellipse with an impressive bracelet. They’ve also added two white gold sports models with bluish-grey dials that will surely prove popular: an Aquanaut Travel Time and a Nautilus chronograph. And they put them on denim straps, which was certainly a choice.
Rolex introduced some interesting new dials, such as a “panda mother-of-pearl” dial option for a white gold Daytona (but it only comes with a diamond bezel and Oysterflex strap). The subdials are black mother-of-pearl while the rest of the dial is white mother-of-pearl. The solid gold $52,100 Deepsea confused some, but the Yacht-Master II was one of the Rolexes discontinued in 2024–so maybe they wanted to keep a gold 44mm watch in the lineup.
H. Moser & Cie has also made quite a stir with a new skeletonized Streamliner.
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In StockJaeger-LeCoultre released a new generation of Duometre, including a steel option for the first time. A few subtle visual tweaks like a new glass box crystal have made a surprisingly big visual difference; the new Duometres are undeniably better-looking than the old ones.
Piaget deserves some appreciation for revealing the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch–the entire watch is 2mm thick! To put that in perspective, in 2014, Bulgari was blowing minds by making a mechanical movement that was 2.23mm thick–just the movement! Without a tourbillon! The watch world advanced a lot in ten years. A 2mm tourbillon is completely insane.
Hublot is now a veteran in the world of sapphire case watches, and they’ve gone all-out with the MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire. It’s a great shade of blue, plus there are seven mainspring barrels mounted across the bottom of the dial, giving the watch two weeks of power reserve.
Grand Seiko didn’t do anything too unexpected for 2024, but the dial of the new Genbi Valley presents an interesting new texture for the brand. There’s also a welcome new 38.6mm case size.
Admittedly I’m not always the biggest Cartier guy, but the new Tortue monopusher chronograph looks fantastic. They also made a maroon Santos that tells time backwards, the Santos Rewind. It will probably be a flop and then become hugely collectible in about five years; I’m calling it now.
The new Panerai PAM 1507 is possibly the best-looking Submersible model yet. The 24-hour markings on its tall, sloped rehaut give it a different look than other Panerai GMT’s. Panerai has also unveiled a new material known as “Ti-Ceramitech,” a ceramic-coated titanium material made through the process of plasma electrolytic oxidation.
Zenith’s hottest release of the year in my opinion is their Defy Revival A3648, which is an homage to a 1969 model (and looks like it). With an octagonal case and a heavy usage of orange accents, I love everything about it except its $7,700 price tag. But, you can usually get Zeniths secondhand for a good price (as I explain in my Zenith watch price guide).
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